One of the many divine sites that puncture Egypt’s skylines, the Great Pyramid of Giza is awe-inspiring, silent, and wondrous proof that civilizations, no matter how robust or refined, have an expiration date. For the pharaohs, it was around 3,000 years. But in the shadow of this colossal tomb, a much younger dynasty lays claim to a new mystical era. Its name is Maison Dior, and it is still well into its reign.
One fall collection that revealed itself in the scorched desert of Giza as night fell was the Kim Jones playbook: expansive, elegant, cinematic. The tombs of ancient pharaohs lit up, a snake of LEDs illuminating the floor to the sound of techno. Jones is an author as much as he is a designer, drawing from both the Dior archives and the world around them to create pure spectacle. The man knows how to put a To display. When the invitations — bone-white and handwritten, naturally — said the venue was Cairo, fashion chatter courses were right to be gassed.
Clothing was a sea of neutrals in non-neutral outfits, as sand, stone and whites were cut with tulle scarves and watery layers. It was futuristic, as is so often the case with Jones, and peppered with seams that never tried too hard; generous jackets at the shoulder and sleeve, but on turtlenecks and technical pieces. The synthesis of tailoring and sportswear is difficult to achieve, and yet Jones manages to make it crackle. It’s his signature. He fed his revelers Dunesfrom the planet Arakkis, armor and all, with the house monogram serving as the baseplate for the lilac undershirt. Elsewhere, there were more than a few scanning space helmets. Oxygen shortage, but do it Dior.
There was also a bit of superstition in science fiction. Brightly colored knits were puffed up with the daily bread of the superstitious: the Illuminati pyramid was on fire in a graphic; constellations of the Zodiac into another.
Under the stars and in front of the silent wonder of the pyramids, everything seemed a bit mystical. That’s kind of the goal. As a fall collection premiere and anniversary party for Dior’s 75th anniversary, Jones wants the celebration to be spiritual and focus on the cosmos, much like the ancient Egyptians, who built the backdrop breathtaking from the spectacle to reflect the trajectory of the stars of Orion’s belt above. “With this anniversary and the collections we’ve done that all tie together and come to a conclusion, it felt fitting to do something very special at the end of the year,” Jones said. QG before the show. “It is the summary of past, present and future in one place, in front of the Great Pyramid.”
According to the show’s notes, Monsieur Christian Dior himself was a superstitious man and found his own “lucky star” by stumbling upon a gem on rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Some would have found little sense in it. But Dior saw more than meaning: there was a message, a premonition that his destiny lay in haute couture, and he was famous for using his astrological faith to guide the house.